Class up your CO2 1911!
The Colt 1911 has been one of the most readily customized guns in the firearm world since its invention in, well, 1911. The airsoft industry has followed suit and has produced a TON of aftermarket accessories to build your 1911 into anything you can imagine, from a super tactical shooter to a classy gentleman’s pistol. Today, we’re going to utilize some real gun parts as well as some airsoft products from Evike to build something that’s a little bit of both; a classy tactical pistol ready to hit the field or be put on display in a glass case. Unfortunately, I don’t have a leather shoulder holster handy to toss this thing in, because it’d really look proper in one. Without much ado, let’s class this thing up a bit.
Cybergun Colt 1911 Rail Gun – $109
5KU Flat Trigger – $10
Madbull Punisher Compensator – $15
Triceratops Customs 1911 Wood Grips – $16
This is going to be a relatively simple conversion using just a few inexpensive parts. We ordered a Madbull compensator and 5KU trigger from Evike for a total of about $25. There aren’t a lot of real wood airsoft-specific 1911 grips, certainly nothing for the CO2 models like this, so we ordered an inexpensive real-steel set from Triceratops Customs on Amazon for about $16. This is as cheap of a custom build as you can reasonably do.
The first thing to modify is the grips, and to start that process off, you’ll want to remove the old grips. A flat head screwdriver makes quick work of the old plastic panels.
With the grip removed, you can see the thing that’s going to give us problems with this install. To make the slimline 1911 frame work with a wide CO2 capsule, the bottom of the frame was flared out a bit.
Side by side with the airsoft grip, you can see that the general shape and size are the same. Holes line up, pin notches are in the right places, so the only thing we’ll need to do is accommodate that frame hump.
You can see the dent that’s molded into the plastic grip to accommodate the frame hump. You can also see the sweet triceratops burnt into the inner surface of the real-steel grip, and that’s pretty rad.
With the grip screwed in place, you can see approximately how much material we’ll have to remove from the wooden grip panel to make it fit properly. Mark the edges of the hump with a pencil so you know how wide that notch will need to be.
Doing one panel at a time, mark the top of the CO2 capsule window on the inner surface of the grip. This will mark the top height and width of the hump. Remove the grip panel, and connect the lines to give you a clear picture of what you need to remove.
I used a dremel tool with a large sanding drum and some 60 grit sandpaper to sand out the notch. Go at a medium speed to avoid overheating the wood, and take your time. It’s easy to remove material, a hell of a lot harder to put it back on.
First panel done. Have the gun handy so that you can test fit it as you go along. You’ll see a few spots where I let the bit wander, but luckily, it’s not visible with the grips installed. Repeat the procedure on the other panel.
See Part Two HERE