Saturday, June 24, 2017
Home » How To's » Lightweight AEG Race Rifle Part III

Lightweight AEG Race Rifle Part III

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Check out Part II of this How-To series here if you haven’t already.

Airsoft is much more than just MilSim and one of the fastest rising branches of the sport is competitive timed shooting events.

Using specialized pistols, rifles and shotguns, shooters take on a predetermined course of targets, racing against the clock to try to score the fastest time. When building a race gun, light weight, accuracy and rapid trigger response take priority over velocity and extended range. We decided to put together an M4 AEG race rifle using some of the newest parts available from companies like Airsplat, G&G, ASG and PTS. To top it all off, we had the gun Cerakoted in a decidedly un-MilSim pure bright white color, to give it a distinctive flashy appearance sure to turn heads on the course. Let’s dive into this build and turn a normal M4 into something decidedly more awesome!

The plan for this build was to make a lightweight, yet still full metal and visually realistic M4 with snappy trigger response, excellent short-mid range accuracy and an ergonomic design using a tubular handguard, steeply angled pistol grip and other lightweight parts. We had a dream list of parts and were able to get most of those that we were looking for! Unfortunately, we did have one more part that we’d have liked to include in the build, a Deep Fire PTW type outer barrel and hop-up unit, but it just wouldn’t cooperate with the LCT receiver and gearbox.

PARTS LIST
LCT M4 RAS—$250
Trinity Force 10” Vented Handguard—$33
APS V2 Hybrid Trigger—$6
APS Trigger Guard—$4
MFT Minimalist Stock—$50
PTS Enhanced Polymer Grip Compact—$20
PTS Enhanced Polymer Magazine—$20
Madbull PWS Triad Compensator—$28
G&G Electronic Trigger Unit—$40
ASG Infinity 28 TPA Motor—$55
Reflex Sight—$30
Madbull Steel 6.03 x 363mm TBB—$40
VFC VR16 Hop-up Unit—Pulled from another gun
Madbull Orange Bucking—Pulled from another gun
Cerakote From Robin Sage Coatings—$125

AEG-p1515A fancy internal trigger system is great, but a new actual trigger unit can give you a world of difference in the trigger feel itself. APS has created an extremely inexpensive drop-in trigger that we elected to install in this project. We painted the lower portion red … because red triggers are the best triggers.

AEG-p1616Test fitting the APS trigger to the G&G trigger unit. The trigger hole in the gearbox shell had to be opened up a tiny bit with a file to let the APS trigger fit, due to its slightly thicker axle. Once that was done, the trigger functioned perfectly.

AEG-p1717Running wires on trigger units like this is always a bit of a chore, but with some poking, prodding and Dremeling down the pins at the rear of the gearbox that push the wires into the wire channel, we were able to get everything fit inside the shell without too much hassle.

AEG-p18 18Before buttoning up the gearbox, we wanted to disable blowback. Five seconds with a Dremel cutoff wheel made quick work of the nylon shuttle that catches the piston, and blowback was permanently disabled.

AEG-p19 19With the wires run, we reinstalled all of the stock gearbox parts, giving it a good shim and lube job while we were at it. The gearbox closed up nicely and we are left with this dead sexy setup.

AEG-p20 20One week after we dropped the parts off with Robin Sage Coatings, we got an email that they were ready for pick up. I am 110% impressed and pleased with their work on these parts. For those that don’t know, Cerakote is not just a special paint, it’s a whole process involving prep work and baking to give you a ridiculously strong and long lasting paint finish. In fact, it’s not even paint at all; it’s a wet applied ceramic coating. It’s rapidly becoming the thing to do with real firearms, so obviously I wanted to try it out on a project like this.

AEG-p21

21The pros of Cerakote are that you get a strong, scratch and impact resistant finish in a variety of colors that retain oil, are corrosion reistant, and frankly, should outlast the rest of your airsoft replica. It can be applied to metal, plastic, wood; pretty much anything your airsoft gun might be made of. The only major con is cost, because it’s not a cheap process. Getting a stripped upper and lower painted at Robin Sage costs $100 ($50 each) and the buffer tube is another $25 or so. Getting your whole rifle painted can be upwards of $200, but, you’ll have a finish that will look amazing, last pretty much forever and will protect your gun’s body.

That’s it for part III, make sure to check back soon for part IV!

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