Check out Part II of this How-To series here if you haven’t already.
Airsoft is much more than just MilSim and one of the fastest rising branches of the sport is competitive timed shooting events.
The plan for this build was to make a lightweight, yet still full metal and visually realistic M4 with snappy trigger response, excellent short-mid range accuracy and an ergonomic design using a tubular handguard, steeply angled pistol grip and other lightweight parts. We had a dream list of parts and were able to get most of those that we were looking for! Unfortunately, we did have one more part that we’d have liked to include in the build, a Deep Fire PTW type outer barrel and hop-up unit, but it just wouldn’t cooperate with the LCT receiver and gearbox.
LCT M4 RAS—$250
Trinity Force 10” Vented Handguard—$33
APS V2 Hybrid Trigger—$6
APS Trigger Guard—$4
MFT Minimalist Stock—$50
PTS Enhanced Polymer Grip Compact—$20
PTS Enhanced Polymer Magazine—$20
Madbull PWS Triad Compensator—$28
G&G Electronic Trigger Unit—$40
ASG Infinity 28 TPA Motor—$55
Madbull Steel 6.03 x 363mm TBB—$40
VFC VR16 Hop-up Unit—Pulled from another gun
Madbull Orange Bucking—Pulled from another gun
Cerakote From Robin Sage Coatings—$125
15A fancy internal trigger system is great, but a new actual trigger unit can give you a world of difference in the trigger feel itself. APS has created an extremely inexpensive drop-in trigger that we elected to install in this project. We painted the lower portion red … because red triggers are the best triggers.
16Test fitting the APS trigger to the G&G trigger unit. The trigger hole in the gearbox shell had to be opened up a tiny bit with a file to let the APS trigger fit, due to its slightly thicker axle. Once that was done, the trigger functioned perfectly.
17Running wires on trigger units like this is always a bit of a chore, but with some poking, prodding and Dremeling down the pins at the rear of the gearbox that push the wires into the wire channel, we were able to get everything fit inside the shell without too much hassle.
18Before buttoning up the gearbox, we wanted to disable blowback. Five seconds with a Dremel cutoff wheel made quick work of the nylon shuttle that catches the piston, and blowback was permanently disabled.
20One week after we dropped the parts off with Robin Sage Coatings, we got an email that they were ready for pick up. I am 110% impressed and pleased with their work on these parts. For those that don’t know, Cerakote is not just a special paint, it’s a whole process involving prep work and baking to give you a ridiculously strong and long lasting paint finish. In fact, it’s not even paint at all; it’s a wet applied ceramic coating. It’s rapidly becoming the thing to do with real firearms, so obviously I wanted to try it out on a project like this.
21The pros of Cerakote are that you get a strong, scratch and impact resistant finish in a variety of colors that retain oil, are corrosion reistant, and frankly, should outlast the rest of your airsoft replica. It can be applied to metal, plastic, wood; pretty much anything your airsoft gun might be made of. The only major con is cost, because it’s not a cheap process. Getting a stripped upper and lower painted at Robin Sage costs $100 ($50 each) and the buffer tube is another $25 or so. Getting your whole rifle painted can be upwards of $200, but, you’ll have a finish that will look amazing, last pretty much forever and will protect your gun’s body.
That’s it for part III, make sure to check back soon for part IV!